Lee, who was previously at French label Celine, kicked off the show in all leather looks – a décolleté dress, zipped biker jacket and trousers – and plenty of A-line quilted skirts that were held at the front with chunky golden chains.
Coats and jackets had very large V-necklines, while tops and long shirt and other dresses were adorned in tiny mirror shapes that added a touch of sparkle.
“While the quiet craft central to Bottega Veneta’s identity is still present, fall 2019 brings a sharp injection of modernity to traditional technique, turning up the volume,” show notes read.
“Combining the human hand with technology and process, the result is simultaneously classic and contemporary.”
Bottega Veneta’s owner, luxury group Kering, said last year German designer Tomas Maier was stepping down as creative director of the Italian leather goods maker, known for its woven leather bags, after 17 years.
Lee said he was “presenting a new vocabulary” for the brand, with the traditional weave “reinterpreted and evolved”.
The weave was seen on outerwear. Other coats had leather closures in some instances, while shiny jackets were taken in at the waist. Knit figure-hugging dresses had open necklines.
The chunky chains were also seen on knits and golden detailing was added to belts that were put on two-layered dresses as well as macs.
For men, there were knits, sometimes ribbed or with rolled up necks, deconstructed or slit, and with extra long sleeves. Tailored coats were sleek and worn over sheer-like tops. Trousers were tucked into chunky boots.
The color palette was mainly dark – black, dark purple, navy and brown, but dabs of orange, turquoise, cream, shiny pink and lilac added bursts of color.
Heels and men’s shoes also bore the quilted pattern. Women also wore chunky boots.
Milan Fashion Week runs until Feb 25.
Reporting by Marie-Louise Gumuchian; Editing by Alison Williams