LONDON – The Royal College of Art mounted its MA show on Thursday at a studio in East London.
Held in Shoreditch, 48 men’s wear, women’s wear, knitwear, footwear and accessories students presented looks that ranged from abstract to conceptual. The university’s showcase was formatted with two runway shows, live presentations, creative installations and displays which spanned across four floors.
On display were the Brioni award winners, including menswear student Rhiannon Wakefield, who was the overall winner; women’s wear student Dan He, who scooped up the innovation award, and Per Hansson, who was recognized for tailoring.
Wakefield’s fascination with color and graphics on the human body lead her to develop a kinetic textile which responds to body movement. Wakefield, who has undertaken internships at Alex Mullins, Michael Van Der Ham and Marios Schwaab, used her bespoke material on a hooded white oversize coat.
With internships at Mary Katrantzou, Celine and Alexander McQueen under his belt, He was inspired by technology, engineering and non-fashion related materials. He created looks comprised of carbon fiber including illuminated dresses that came asymmetrical.
Menswear student Hansson, who interned at Aitor Throup, Ute Ploier and Sruli Recht, worked with nylon, treated denim, needlepunched rib jersey and neoprene with a Mongolian lamb fur into his range which included a white distressed tanktop worn with mesh-printed trousers.
Menswear student Elizabeth Vale sent a simple and chic range of tailored pieces including a dark navy crop button down jacket paired with cuffed trousers in the same hue while menswear student Seunghee Lim’s lineup included a bold yellow and black jacket with fisherman style pockets placed in front and a backpack on the back, worn over black crop pants.
Menswear student Arnar Jonsson, who interned with Vivienne Westwood and Adidas, incorporated high performance fabrics, denim and cashmere into his range which included a sporty cream ath-leisure jacket and track suit bottoms.
Menswear student Bianca Saunders channeled hyper-masculine stereotypes for her collection. A former intern for Preen, KTZ and Jonathan Saunders, she worked in cotton, jersey, denim, leather and nylon into her range which included tan khaki crop trousers worn with a half-tucked white T-shirt and a grey bomber jacket.
Womenswear student Fabian Kis-Juhasz was inspired by the notion of monstrous femininity and female empowerment. The Budapest-born student, who interned at Giles and Meadham Kirchoff, paired a strapless pink tea length dress done in a blush pink with a red headpiece that resembled horns.
Womenswear student Zahra Sooty Hosseini, who interned at Gareth Pugh and Aitour Throup, focused on modest fashion and worked jersey, coated cotton and velvets into a series of floor-length abayas and hijabs -some adorned with shiny black or green accents. She mounted a conceptual display depicting Muslim prayer.